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Via della Torre as seen from Via delle Mura

Going up towards the Duomo along the Via del Pretorio you come to the corner where it meets the other end of Via della Mura. Before and after this point there are a number of small very narrow streets or passageways. These 'vicoli' are characteristic of the pattern of connecting passages which weave through the historical centre of the town, and which nearly all start from Via di Mezzo (discussed in the second itinerary).

Along the right hand side of Via delle Mura, past the Palazzo Gramigna, and continuing along most of the last part of the Via del Pretorio, is the historic complex of buildings belonging to the convent known as the Conservatorio di Santa Elisabetta. This convent was founded by Michele Turignoli of Barga in the 15th Century for young women who wished to enter the Third Order of St Francis (papal bull of Pope Callisto IV in 1456). In 1787, it was transformed into a school for young girls (conservatorio) by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo who ordered it to be amalgamated with the Dominican convent in Barga situated near the church of the Santissima Annunziata on the street now known as Via di Mezzo. The school, which was run by nuns of the Order of St. Joseph, provided an education for girls from less fortunate families, who could study there right up to the level of a teaching certificate. Giovanni Pascoli defined the school as a: "...fucina di maestrine di montagna..." (a forge for hilltown teachers).

Inside the grounds of the Conservatorio is a magnificent garden with tennis and basketball courts. The cloister, which is in the classical style, encloses an area partly paved in stone and part garden where you will find a huge stone urn containing flowers and evergreen plants, and an Artesian well which used to provide the water for the domestic use of the convent.

The cloister of the Conservatorio di Santa Elisabetta

In the beautiful little church attached to the Conservatorio there are a number of important works of art. These include paintings, a fine choir stall fashioned in wood, and a lovely altar piece dedicated to the Madonna della Cintola. This latter is in Della Robbian style but, according to an attribution by Gentilini, it is actually from the workshop of Benedetto Buglioni. There is also a 'tondo' in glazed terracotta of the Madonna and Child attributed to Giovanni Della Robbia. Also inside the church is a magnificent wooden crucifix from the French School of the 13th Century.Further works of art can be found in the corridors and richly furnished rooms of the Conservatorio itself, for example, in the so-called 'Red Room'.

The Madonna of the Cintola. Glazed terracotta altar piece attributed to the workshop of Benedetto Buglioni.

Next to the church there is a small gym which was built for the sporting activities of the school and which is used today by various local associations.

Turning back to Via del Pretorio, at the point at which it meets Via delle Mura, you will find, on the corner, a small palazzo belonging to the Bertacchi family, an old distinguished Barga family dating back to the times of the Medici. Further up the Via del Pretorio, on the left hand side, is the back entrance to the Palazzo Salvi-Balduini, which originally belonged to the Pieracchi family and then to the Bertacchi. This stone entranceway, built in classical Medici style, leads to a cloister with a well inside it, and to the part of the building which was inhabited by the Balduini family. Inside is an art gallery containing the works of Adolfo Balduini (1881-1957), the graphic artist, painter, and sculptor, who exhibited at the Biennale di Venezia, along with the other Barga artists Magri, Cordati and Vittorini.  

A. Balduini: "La vecchietta di monte" (Old lady of the mountain). Woodcut


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